From Hobbits to Trolls

By Phil on 2015.07.30 In Norway

After our Hardangervidda wild camp we assessed the weather situation for our next planned hike, which was going to be Gladhøpiggen, the highest mountain in Norway at 2469 metres. With snow forecast, strong possibility of poor visibility along with the 6 hour drive, we decided to abandon that plan and head to Odda a day early

On the way we spotted a roadside help yourself Bakeri, so we pulled over for refreshments. It was a really cool place with lots of tiny cabins scattered around. So we wandered into the Bakeri cabin to choose our freshly made cakes and had a coffee while swinging in the hammocks provided. The smell was amazing and reminded me of my Dad’s bakery the Bread Basket from a few years ago.

As we were about to leave and continue to Odda, we noticed you could hire Hobbit sized looking cabins, so we did. We managed to get the last one which slept 4 for only £31! The beauty of not having a plan and playing it by ear helps you find hidden gems like this. Though having to duck your head as you entered the cabin took some getting used to. Especially for Jason who banged his head a few times, which I thought he would have been used to coming from the Shires, Worcestershire to be precise.

After raiding the freshly made products from the Bakeri and a few coffees, we headed to our next destination of Odda, the start point for Trolltunga.

After doing Trolltunga the same time last year with Jostein, I was telling Jason all about that epic weekend adventure, though he did ask if we could avoid a repeat of last year and not having to spend night in rescue hut as me and Jostein did. You can read more on that adventure here.

We arrived at the at a packed car park at around 14:00, which is what I expected as a lot of people do it in a single day but we had planned on doing another wild camp up Trolltunga.

As we started making our way up the very steep ascent at the start, it wasn’t long before the day trippers were coming back down past us. We spoke to an American couple who told us to expect a lot of snow while they were standing dressed like they had come out of a Disney theme park. They had set off at 06:00 and were limping after injuring themselves. Which was hardly surprising given their attire.

The weather wasn’t great but still made for some stunning views. The big difference I did notice from last year was the amount of snow still around. There were many large patches which we had to cross.

As we got about 5km from the summit of Trolltunga we passed the rescue hut that me and Jostein had stayed in last year after walking 2 hours in the dark back to our abandoned rucksacks. We had planned to leave 2 gas canisters and 2 tins of baked beans as a thank you for me using he hut last year. However I was devastated! Someone had ransacked the rescue hut. The window glass was smashed, the front door ripped off its hinges and left on ground, the bunk inside totally removed, rubbish everywhere. It was disgusting. There is no way weather could have caused that damage.

After seeing the state of the rescue hut had put a bit of a dampener on my day. The weather also stated to change with clouds coming in and the wind picking up, but luckily the rain held off.

We finally arrived at Trolltunga and luckily for us there wasn’t a single person on it. Just a handful hanging around and one guy camped right next to it. So it was straight on the rock for our photo sessions.

A few others did turn up and one girl in particular brought her poodle dog. It was tiny and she took it on the rock on a lead and posed for photos and then took the lead off! I was honestly thinking the dog would try and look over the edge and go! Just glad nobody threw a stick or a ball! Would have been the craziest game of fetch I would have ever seen.

We then headed a little further past Trolltunga to find our camp spot. Once the tent was up, which Jason helped me with this time, it was time for dinner and more freeze dried meals. My chicken korma was delicious so will be changing my food order for Iceland trek to have more of those and Jason had brought a chocolate chip freeze dried desert for us to share. Not bad while camped on a mountain looking down on Trolltunga. I’ve had worse digs. The big plus of this was camp was no Mosquitos!!! Hurrah!

I decided to head back to Trolltunga from our tent at about 22:45 to see if anyone was around and what the sky was like. It was amazing. There was nobody there and although the sky wasn’t clear it was still stunning. Then a young German guy appeared from nowhere and asked me to take his photo on the rock. He offered to return to the favour but told him I’d had my photo session earlier. Plus the wind had picked up a bit so wasn’t taking any chances. 

Had a great night sleep after finally convincing ourselves that our chosen camp spot wouldn’t be hit by falling rocks from the massive sheer rock face towering above us. Was great having breakfast above Trolltunga looking at the snow capped mountains around us.

We were packed and ready to go by 08:00 so we headed back to Trolltunga for one final look before heading back down. Once again a great idea as there was nobody around so took a few more photos. Was great seeing it in a different light as the sun was shining and blue skies breaking through.

After a couple of hours we started passing the crowds heading up toward the rock. It was a constant Hey Hey, Hi Hi and even a Mon Mon thrown in as we passed fellow hikers. With the occasional Eastern European greeting which was hard to reply to so I threw in a few local Aye Aye’s in return.

It was a great hike down as the weather was a lot sunnier than yesterday. We finally arrived back at the car around 13:00 before heading to Stavanger for a well deserved few nights of luxury and more casual hiking. We are on holiday after all!

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Welcome to my blog about hiking, trekking, Fjällräven Polar 2014, in fact anything where you require boots and the outdoors.

My name is Phil, and following my outdoor epiphany which started in the summer of 2012 I’m now hooked on everything outdoors. So far my biggest treks have included the 250km Cathar Way, the 170km Tour du Mont Blanc and best of all, winning 1st place to take part in the Fjällräven Polar in April 2014.

I plan to use this blog to write about all my adventures, which will include my personal goal of becoming a Munroist (completing all 282 Scottish Munro mountains), summer treks, weekends in the Lakes and many more.

I like to try and make my blog posts humorous so I hope you enjoy reading and that I can put a smile on people’s faces while showing you some amazing places.

If you have any questions about the blog or the places I'm writing about, don't hesitate to contact me on: phil@philyourboots.com

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